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Extra info for Contemporary Details (Whitney Library of Design)
The folds are created using a true bias cut and the pattern can be constructed on the flat or by draping on a mannequin. Some cowls are designed with pleats or gathers with varying numbers of folds. Cowls can either be cut in one piece with the garment or as a separate piece. Pockets > Bias cut > Fitting the toile • Pattern cutting Fitting the toile Pattern cutting 1 Vivienne Westwood menswear jacket at development stage and the final outcome presented at the fashion show. All garments should be properly fitted before going into production and a number of methods can be employed to do this.
Decisions about finishes such as binding or top-stitching are finalised. Once everyone is happy with the fit, the garment can be cut out in the final fabric and a shell fitting can take place. The shell fitting enables the designer to see how the final fabric behaves on the body. As such, the garment is only very basically constructed. The seams are not cleaned up and facings and lining are not yet attached. If necessary, small alterations can still take place at this stage. Sometimes more than one or two toile fittings take place, especially on new shape developments.
One-piece sleeves are used for a more casual look, whereas two-piece sleeves are mostly seen on garments such as tailored jackets or coats. 2 The laid-on sleeve is part of the bodice. Once constructed, either a part of the armhole remains or there is no armhole at all. A laid-on sleeve is most commonly constructed by separating the one-piece sleeve through the shoulder notch straight down to the wristline to gain a front piece and a back piece (see technical drawing below). The next step is to align the front piece of the sleeve with the bodice’s front shoulder and the back sleeve with the bodice’s back shoulder.